If we move from Parma toward the Appennino, after few street kilometers, almost unexpectedly the landscape becoming sinuously, hilly; If we move from Parma toward the Appennino, after few street kilometers , almost unexpectedly the landscape becoming sinuously, hilly; after they left the plain behind, it open an enchanting scenery of hills covered of vineyards that surround medieval and Renaissance castles: we are in the heart of the DOC Colli in Parma, uncontested kingdom of one of the noblest vines of the oenologic patrimony of Italy and of the world: the Malvasia.
Born in ancient Greece, the vine Malvasia has spread above all for worth of the Venetians that had adapted the name of the Greek city of origin Monembasia, turning it first into Malfasia, then in Malvasia.
The italian term has spread in the whole of Mediterranean basin, passing to the Spaniard Malvagia, to the Croatian Malvasije, to Slovenian Malvelzevec, to the French Malvoisie, for then to pass over the English Channel as Malmsey. In Italy there are nineteen Malvasie enrolled in the national register of the varieties of grapevine; eleven to white grape and seven to black grape. In Parma the Malvasia is that Aromatic of Candia and represents the white vine more cultivated. This vine, used in purity or with others vines, it gives fizzy wines, dry or semisecchi, sweets. Today in Parma also you can found sparkling malvasie. In the lowland, on sandy or too fertile soils , the Malvasia gives pleasant wines and easy to drink. At hill it is expressed with great personality with its colour golden yellow and its aromatic and persistent bouquet that satisfy the palate with a extraordinary equilibrium between roundness and tasty.
The Malvasia Aromatica of Candia has found since 1500 b. C. its ideal terroir in the sweet hills parmensi which have soils rich in clay and moderate climate, ideal conditions for the maturation of its golden bunches. The duchess Maria Luigia of Austria, who made great the city, didn’t disdain to drink this wine affirming that “…non mi pono il dubbio di non bere il dolce vino collinare che l’ultimo dei sagrestani beve” (i have not doubts to drink the hilly sweet wine that drinks also the last of the sextons). The Malvasia gets the DOC in 1982 and its disciplinary circumscribes the zone of production among the hilly band the Val of Enza and the Valley of the Stirone with its maximum concentration around the castel of Torrechiara. The tasting of the Malvasia of the Colli di Parma DOC gives an aromatic equipment particularly rich and complex: broad range of primary aromas of orange tree, cedar, lemon, notes yielded of fishing, apricot and floral of acacia and lavender. There are perfumes of aromatic grasses as sage and mint; for complete the bouquet, there are notes of honey, mineral, fruit shoal and candied, surely stronger in the “passita” vinification.
To the palate it is characterized for the good freshness and the pleasant hints typical of the vine, tasty and light, of body with bitterish ending. the versatility of the Malvasia there is also to table: gets married with the Parma ham DOP, the dry version goes with good appetizers, dishes of pasta as the “tortelli d’ erbetta”, a typical pasta stuffed; with white meats and recipes of fish not particularly elaborate; in the agreeable or sweet version it is combined to dessert, sweets at supple paste and pastry generally. To the palate it is characterized for the good freshness and the pleasant hints typical of the vine, tasty and light, of body with bitterish ending. the versatility of the Malvasia there is also to table: gets married with the Parma ham DOP, the dry version goes with good appetizers, dishes of pasta as the “tortelli d’ erbetta”, a typical pasta stuffed; with white meats and recipes of fish not particularly elaborate; in the agreeable or sweet version it is combined to dessert, sweets at supple paste and pastry generally.
The fizzy and sparkly version they are excellent as aperitive, while the passito is conjugates admirably with the zabaione. “It puts joy to open a bottle of good wine lambrusco; the cork jumps with joyous noise, and wine comes down in the glass, fizzling with mobile foam, hopping, it almost seems that I/you/he/she laugh; the perfume expands him and invites to drink….”
The versions fizzy and sparkly are excellent as aperitive, while the passito matches admirably at the zabaione.
” Puts joy open a bottle of good lambrusco wine; the cap jumps with joyous noise and the wine in the glass descends fizzy, with surf movable, hopping , it seems to laugh ; the perfume expands and invites to drink …. “
So the winemaker Vincenzo Valde called Lambrusco in The praise of the bottle, (published in 1937 ). The Lambrusco is one of those autochtonous vines that have the great credit to represent a territory; in reality we should use the plural from the moment that the domestication of the “vitis vinifera silvestris” has given origin, to numerous clones, through spontaneous mutations or created by the man. Today we distinguish among the Lambrusco Maestri (the most cultivated in province in Parma), the Grasparossa, the Salamino and the Sorbara’s Lambrusco, to quote some of it.
One the most ancient quotes of the “labrusca vitis” is that of the poet Virgilio. In the Pastoral poems, he speaks of the “woodsy vine shoots” of labrusca that decorate a cave. Plinio the Old, in the The sec. d.C., had indicated in the Padania one land particularly suitable to the cultivation of the grapevine. beginning from the Middle Ages the wines coming from Parma were famous in how much “full of foam and of perfume”; but it is the authoritative Andrew Bacci, in 1517, to give the best representation of the landscape of vineyards into the Emilia, land of lambrusco married to the poplars and the elms in the traditional form of breeding of the “tree- lined “. “This type of vineyard, where the grapevine climbs upward naturally to aerate more and more”, is made for produce “wines particularly valuable, of taste pleasantly fizzy, from the sweet perfume that sparkling in gilded little bubbles when they put it into the glass .” From the sixteenth century . Lambrusco will have a resounding success becoming increasingly known abroad up to the climax in the Napoleonic age . at that time, in fact , with the Malvasia of the Parma hills , he dominated the trade routes to France .
If its originary identity was of wild grapevine, today it has conquered a such dignity to satisfy the tastes of large numbers of consumer, thanks to its versatility which is exalted by the modern techniques of vinificazione. With this modes the vine-variety gives life in varied typologies of wines that go from the sumptuous little bubbles of the ancestral method to the meddler structure of the firm reds .
The Lambrusco has characteristics of good acidity, effervescence and freshness that it make a wine by combine at a lot of culinary preparations. For its sincere and exuberant character, its vivacity and lightness, is the ideal wine in many occasions: fresh, perfumed, justly tannico, extremely digestible because moderately alcoholic, it results scheming with gastronomic combinings of the international cooking.
Collects well the provocative combination with a good pizza like ” Four Seasons” , rocket and parmesan or bacon , while its version sparkling rosé is appreciated as an aperitif and to accompany delicate dishes , appetizers and bowls of pasta with fish and vegetables .
Naturally the Lambrusco it combines perfectly with the typical emiliana cooking and particulary with that in Parma, one the most famouse in the world for its dishes rich, but at the same time genuine; to regards the pasta dishes, there are the traditional “anolini” in broth and “tortelli”, to reach the seconds dishes, where the protagonists are: the boiled mixed, the cotechino with the lentils and the tripe to the parmesan. But it is with the entree, with a dish of Culatello , Ham, Salami of Feline accompanied by the “torta fritta” (fried bread), that the Lambrusco gives the best of itself.
…not only Lambruschi and Malvasia: the Balmy vinegar
Not all the grapes are cultivated for becoming wine; some are destined to become other, something of incredibly long-lived that needs to be waited with patience for decades: the traditional balmy vinegar.
Few kilometers from Parma, in the nearby province in Reggio Emilia, are cultivated and selected with care the vines Trebbiano, Eye of Cat, Spergola, with the Lambrusco allowed by the disciplinary, to create the musts destined to the vinegar cellars. Here, inside to kegs of chestnut, mulberry, cherry, juniper and oak wood, organized for rows of 5, 6 and also 8 barrels, the precious liquid will rest for decades. The process of workmanship is meticulous and every passage is fundamental to reach the final product : the must is cooked of the fire direct and to low temperature (70° Cs) for over 50 hours, subsequently there is the fhase of preparation of the barrels with the graft of colonies of ” Acetobacter Aceti ” and finally the passing to the delicate phase of the starting of the kegs. The result is a brown and shining syrup, penetrating and persistent, mellow and involving, that is able to exalt a flake of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese seasoned or a slice of Culatello. Are sufficient few drops and the dish turns into an unforgettable experience!
“Food Valley” products experts to the territory
The idea of founding Parma Travel Food arises from the wish to share with others a few passions cultivated in the time for the good kitchen, the good wine and for the alimentary products of its earth. The wide knowledge of the Parmesan territory, of his little productive realities mom-and-pop and the traditional refreshment, that still he entirely produces its culinary treasures from himself they form a combination of experiences that Parma Travel Food and how many are to the search for things at disposal authentications, beautiful and good.